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TwoMinute Egg Egglofter Plans

For B6-2Engine


Use THIS LINK for PLANS in PDF format

Refer to the plans and the photos and comments on this web page.

Kits for this model are available at upcoming club events and if need be directly from George.

Also see the Eggloft Tips Page

The trickiest step is curling the shroud. Cut out the shroud, beingsure to leave the glue tab on it. Carefully start to roll up theshroud into a curl, avoiding causing wrinkles. It helps to start offthe curling by wrapping it around a tube or pipe. Start with a tubeor pipe about 1.5" in diameter, then use a smaller tube, pipe, or rodof about 1" diameter or so to curl it. When you get it curled arounda 1" diameter, then use a 1/2" rod or dowel to help curl it more. Bythat point you should be able to curl it tighter without usinganything inside. Curl it much tighter than it needs to be whenjoined. Try to curl it so it is curled about two wraps worth. Theidea is to curl it a lot smaller than it needs to be, then use somerubber bands to hold the tightly curled shroud in place and let itstay tightly curled for an hour or so. This way, the curl will "set"over time so when you remove the rubber bands it will uncurl to someextent but will be close to the correct amount of curl needed to glueit together.

For gluing, it is useful to have a 5/8" wood dowel or some similarcylinder smaller than a BT-20. If you are concerned about gettingglue onto the dowel or cylinder, apply some masking tape to protectit. Use 5-minute Epoxy or Carpenter's glue to glue the shroudtogether (White glue can also be used, and Cyanoacrylate can be usedtoo though it can be tricky). Apply the glue to the tab. Join theedges of the shroud together with the tab overlapping the joint. Youmay find it useful to use a couple of short pieces of scotch tape totemporarily hold the tab at the correct overlap while the glue isdrying.

The dowel or cylinder is used for applying force inside of the tabjoint. Put the dowel inside, under the tab joint, and use that as aninternal support so you can use your fingers to press down onto theoutside of the tab overlap joint. Let the glue set up well enough sothat the joint will hold after you let go. If you used 5 minute epoxyor CA, you can continue work on the model pretty quickly. If you usedCarpenter's glue or white glue, you'll have to allow plenty of timefor it to dry.

Now you can go on to the other steps.

 BT-20 engine mount tube:

Use the marking guide from the Plans to mark the location for the three fins, and mark those locations lengthwise on the tube,

Tie the Kevlar Cord to small centering ring. Glue it inside of the tube. The large ring is a SNUG fit, and needs a bit of de-burring to get it to slide on. Glue it in place and let the assembly dry for awhile.




When the engine mount tube assembly is done, slide it down into the top of the shroud, and pull it down through the narrow bottom end of the shroud. Temporarily push the mount assembly back up about an inch. Use a small dowel or other object of about 1/8" diameter to "brush" some white glue deep down inside the lower end of the shroud (better yet, use a small brush taped to an extension).

Do this so you can glue the large centering ring in place into the shroud. Be sure to get enough of the white glue below the centering ring so that it will be in the correct location to glue the ring once the mount assembly is slid down fully. When complete, slide the mount assembly down and check that it is aligned dead-center through the shroud as it needs to be, that it is not crooked. Finally apply some glue to the joint where the shroud ends to secure the mount tube to it. Make SURE not to let the Kevlar shock cord get glued to the shroud or anywhere else other than the ring it is secured to, the cord should protrude a few inches out of the top of the shroud.

NEW TIP: Some have had trouble gluing the shroud joint together. An alternative is to use double-sided Scotch Tape (has a yellow label). Get the "permanent" type, and not the "removeable" type.To allow extra room for the tape along the joint, cut out the shroud leaving the "tab" part 1/2" wide all the way down, instead of being tapered on the way down. It can be tricky to try to lay down the tape full length long the tab area in one piece, without being crooked. So, pull off about 3 to 4 inches of the double-sided tape and lay it down onto the tab portion, make sure it is straight, then repeat the process until there is tape all along the tab area. Then you can carefully lay the other side of the shroud over the tab area and press together.

Use the Fin Pattern to cut three fins from medium 3/32" balsa. Round or airfoil the fins as desired.
Glue the fins on, using the lines from the marking guide.

Locate the bottom of the fin roots 1/4" above the end of the body tube, so you can use masking tape to tape the engine in place when you fly the model. This way, the model does not need a thrust ring and does not need an engine hook.

Cut the 1.25" launch lug so you have a 1/2" long piece for the top and 3/4" piece for the bottom. Temporarily place the Easter Egg Capsule on top of the shroud. Glue the 3/4" lug to one of the fins. Use a 1/8" launch rod to help you align the 3/4" lug so it misses the egg capsule by about 1/32".

From some scrap balsa, cut out a short standoff so that the upper 1/2" launch lug will miss the capsule by about 1/32". Glue the standoff to the 1/2" lug. Use a 1/8" launch rod to help align the 1/2" lug and standoff in the proper location relative to the lug glued to one of the fins (the rod running through the 3/4" lug on the fin and 1/2" lug on the standoff). Glue the 1/2" lug and standoff to the shroud. Be careful not to get glue on the 1/8" rod and remove it when the 1/2" lug is glued to the shroud.

Remaining steps: Drill two small 1/16 to 3/32" holes into the bottom of the egg capsule so you can attach a loop of strong cord securely to the capsule (I forgot to include some extra Kevlar cord for this in the kits).

The REAL shock cord for the model is 1/8" elastic, about 3 feet of it. The short Kevlar cord attached to the main body is there as a good shock cord mounting system, nothing more. Tie the elastic to the kevlar to attach the main body. Tie the other end of the Elastic to the cord on the egg capsule.

Parachutes are up to you. The larger the chute, the better the duration. but the larger, the harder it can be to get reliable deployment. Sources for chute material are 1/4 mil (.25 mil) drop cloths, cheap ponchos, and dry cleaner bags. For other parachute tips, see the Egglofter Tips Page. Tie the chute to the Elastic so there is about 2 feet from the chute to the capsule, leaving about one foot from the chute to the main body kevlar cord,

For Padding the egg, wrap it in a lot of Toilet Paper. Use vinyl or electrical tape to hold the egg capsule halves together.

For the Contest, eggs will be provided, you cannot supply your own. Check-in for the event, select one of the numbered eggs, and be sure your egg number is written down on your flight card.

Alsosee the Eggloft Tips Page

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