Little Joe-II Pages |
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| Little Joe-II at JSC - Houston, Texas George (far right) with Little Joe-II and launcher at JSC, during NARAM-21 (1979) Rick Gaff photo - Mark Bundick in foreground.
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Static Judging (Bob Alway photo) | Loading onto Pad, with Wayne Hendricks (Bob Alway photo) | 2007 update - New internal CM for Mission Points, replacing original CM lost in 1990 |
NARAM-33 Peanut Sport Scale - 1991 A-002 1/100 Scale Near Chicago, Illinois Southern Comfort Team - 2nd place For info on how this model was built, see the second part of the construction series further down this page. The model was built at 1/100 scale, as the Centuri and Estes kits were. This one was for A-002, perhaps he first time anyone had modeled A-002 for a NARAM (or any meet?). I used more advanced fabrication methods for that model than I had for the previous ones. Especially regarding Alumilite cast parts and RTV molds. The Peanut model suffered a bit due to its tiny size. The UNITED STATES lettering was done by clear decal, and the clear decal film was visible, so that hurt the score somewhat. It took Second Place in Team Division, to Team Neutron's Tiny Saturn-IB (Jay Marsh and Ed LaCroix), We would merge teams later to create the Southern Neutron Team. | | | with Peanut and Quest models Removeable Base plate, slight burn damage. |
Southern Neutron Team: Wayne Hendricks, Ed LaCroix, George Gassaway, & Jay Marsh | Photo by Tom Beach (High Res.) | Photo by Tom Beach | Photo by Tom Beach |
NARAM-38 Sport Scale - 1996 Evansville, Indiana Southern Neutron Team - 1st place Yet again the NARAM Joe came through. It was one of the even wins at NARAM that year that helepd us to nail down another Team Championship for SouthernNeutron. It was mothballed and not flown again until NARAM-48 in 2006 |
(no photo available) |
7" Diameter 1/22 Sport Model - 1991 In 1991, I wanted to build a 7" Diameter 1/22 model just for sport flying, not contests. A boilerplate was built out of poster paper. It flew on a G25 and six C6's. It also happened to be my HPR Level 1 Cert flight, in those days a person certified on a G. I regret that I do not have a photo of the actual model, before it crashed. It was made up from .02" styrene plastic for the body, and also for the Capsule. It was a very lightweight way to build a model like that. It weighed about 1.5 pounds, plus 4 ounces of noseweight added to the Escape Rocket. Detailing was sacrificed, even the corrugations were just crudely scribed into the skin. I had intended to fly it eventually on an H45, and six D12's, but never got that chance. It did make a great flight at NARAM-43 in 1991. That fall, I flew it in Huntsville at HARA's Rocket City Classic. Unfortunately the G25 did not light, but the six C6's had enough power (like a 60 N-sec F36) to carry it up 100 feet or more, then it fell to the ground and was smashed. I still have the main Joe body, but do not know if I ever will rebuild it. Ironically I had intended to add R/C ejection to that model later on, that would have saved it. | Posterboard Boilerplate Photo by Vince Huegele | The aftermath of the core G25 failing to ignite | 2008 photo comparing the 1/22 model with Micro Maxx and 1/100 Models |
Centuri 1/45 Little Joe-II Tests - (1989 or so) I modified my old 1/45 model ,which was in bad shape, to try out a couple of things. For one, I replaced the original engine mount with one for 7 engines. A 24mm engine in the center, and six 18mm engines. I did not test it on 7 engines though, I only got around to doing a test with three, a D12 and two C6's. The other test was for "abort staging". I modified the BPC cone to hold an engine mount in the base of it, plus a system to deploy a parachute to recover it. And added a mercury switch system into a 1" long ejectable piston that fit in the upper part of the SM, just under the BPC cone, to both house the electronics and to keep the recovery system of the Main Body from being roasted by the A3 engine inside the BPC. It flew and worked out just great. Later I did a similar BPC Abort test with a 4" model, and C6 engine in the base of the BPC. It worked, but I decided not to pursue it for the Contest models due to the reliability risks. | George and Wayne Hendricks | Ready for flight at a HARA launch |
LITTLE JOE II MODEL ASSEMBLY INFORMATION Assembly pictures - The 1/39.5 Regional model assembly in 1990 A Boilerplate model was built to explore the construction using corrugated plastic sheet curled into a tube, fin attachment, and BT-80 tube for recovery compartment (with a printed wrapper for the Service Module pattern). Service Module slips on and is replaceable. In both photos at right, the Boilerplate is seen with a sivler body, and a paper printed wrap on the Service Module The "Regional" Little Joe model (being built in these pics) went through thru several Service Modules due to accumulated wear and tear. The Regional Model seen here was built with a 29mm engine mount. The NARAM model was built with a 24mm mount, to fly on E15 power. A baffle system was used inside of a BT-80 tube, to store the parachutes. Over time I regretted not having something larger than BT-80 inside, such as a 3" or 3.25" tube to allow for more room to store the chutes and shock cord. | |
The scale of 1/39.5 was determined by a 12" wide piece of Evergreen "Metal Siding" plastic sheet with .10" spacing to produce the necessary 120 corrugations (result is 3.89" diameter tube). There was a lot of use of vacuformed parts, including the BPC/Capsule cone , nozzles, and fin root fairings. Even the 16 Thruster quad nozzles. Wayne Hendricks arranged to have a machinist to turn a mandrel for use in vac-forming the Apollo BPC Cone. There was little use of casting due to not discovering the joys of Alumilite by then. The cast fairing translucent pieces on the system tunnel plate are polyester resin, Alumilite is lots better. When I later did a Peanut Scale modle at 1/100 scale, I made a lot of use of casting. The lower body skin, and system tunnel strips, were cut from .005" styrene and glued into place. | |
The Tower was built from 3/32" and 1/16" plastic tubing using a flat jig to hold two vertical legs and the horizontal struts. See the Jig Drawing Pattern at right. Take note it is at 200%, 1/19.75 scale, meant to be printed at 50% for 1/39.5 scale. Once the two vertical legs and two horizontal struts were glued together, then the diagonal struts were added in. This was done two times, to make two sub-assemblies, let's call them side 1 and side 3.. Once both were fully dry, then one leg of side 1 and one leg of side 3 were taped into place on the jig so that the horizontal struts for side 2 could be glued in. Once that was done, then it could be removed, and rotated 180 degrees then taped to the jig to allow side 4 to be assembled. Another special jig was made for gluing together the "X" struts, cut from 4 pieces of 1/16" plastic rod. Pre-printed cutting guides were used to help trim them to the correct angles and length. The jig for the "X" struts was bowed inwards, the same as the real thing. Once an X strut was completed and fully dried, it was glued to one side of the tower assembly, and the process repeated for the other three. There is more info on building the LES Tower further down on this page, including photos of the Jig. | |
Photo at right: Alignment of the assembled tower top to the BPC cone, and alignment for attaching LES motor and skirt was done by making a special jig (shown) to hold all parts centered. As seen here, the assembled BPC and Tower had already been painted white, and the Tower Skirt painted black, before gluing the skirt to the Tower. It would have been quite difficult if those has been glued together first, and then painted. The Regional model went on to win many regional meets over the years, mostly in Alabama. The final of the big three problems to solve for building a Little Joe-II was how to do the UNITED STATES lettering so it would conform with the corrugated body. Solid black decal film would be used for the letters. First I simply cut different widths of decal film and applied them to some test corrugations, and found just the right width to fit across exactly three corrugations. Then I drew up the lettering and adjusted the width of the lettering to match the width as determined by the decal tests. | |
The drawn lettering was printed out onto paper, then the paper rubber-cemented onto solid black decal sheet. Then I used a singe edge razor blade and straight edge to cut out each letter, one at a time. If the font had been curved instead of angular, I could never have cut curves freehand. When the letters were cut out, the rubber-cemented-on paper was peeled off, leaving the black decal letter to be applied. I drew up a letter spacing guide, cut it out, and taped it to the side of the body, offset to the right, as seen in the photo at right. This showed me exactly where to place each letter. To get the letters to conform, it required setting solution and a scrap piece of Evergreen corrugated plastic as used for the main body (the corrugated plastic matches face to face). The Evergreen corrugated plastic was used to help press the letter into place, into he crevices of the corrugations. A small paintbrush was also used in helping to slide the decal around to get it just right before. Sometimes it took several tries to get a letter placed just right, but it was not a bad process. When I did the NARAM model, I molded an RTV rubber strip to use instead in place of the plastic, since it could wrap easily across the painted body without scratching. I should note that the Regional model, seen here, did not have accurate elevons, the hingeline was simply scribed on. That is because the whole project was a progression from R&D of fabricating the corrugations, building a LES, and doing the lettering. Then making a boilerplate, then the Regional model, and finally the NARAM model. The NARAM model did have accurate elevons and other detailing the Regional Model did not have. | |
1/100 Peanut Little Joe-II for NARAM-33 (1991)
At right, from left to right: A test sample of trying to curl .04" spaced Evergreen Plastic into a tube, and next to that, a printed ful l body wrap with Centuri cone on top (I used a vac-formed cone for the Peanut model). The curled .04" plastic did not work as wel lfor me as it had for Tom. So, I ended up making a flexible body wrap. I used HobbyPoxy "Smooth-N-Easy" epoxy, a low viscosity epoxy that was flexible, to cast a body wrap, using the Evergreen plastic as a female pattern. The epoxy was mixed with some red dye, the epoxy poured into the plastic sheet model, and a brush was used to remove any tiny bubbles (the red dye made the bubbles visible). Once done, a pre-cut piece of 1.5 ounce fiberglass cloth was laid over the the mold, so the cast wrap would have a backing (otherwise, an all-epoxy wrap would rip when removed from the mold). A sheet of plastic was laid on top of everything, than a sturdy flat sheet on top of that, and weights to squeeze out the excess epoxy. | .04" plastic body Test Sample, Printed Body Wrap, Test Assembly, and Final Model |
As seen at right, let side of photo, a reject wrap was used with a Test Assembly Model. Not for flying, just a practice run at assembly so problems that might crop up would happen with this and not the real model. The tube for the wrap was a piece of BT-60 that had had a strip cut out and re-glued to reduce the diameter to one equal to the inside diameter of the BT-58 used for the Estes Apollos. That allowed for the correct diameter for the epoxy wrap to fit just right, at 120 corrugations. The tube was allowed to be a bit longer so that for the real NARAM peanut model, the front end would act as a tube coupler for the completed Service Module to be mounted onto and glued from the inside. The Main Fins and Root Fairings were cast in one piece using Alumilite. The Elevons were cast separately, then glued on. 005" styrene was used to simulate the splice rings and lower body skin, as well as System Tunnels. The silver paint on half of the Test Assembly Model was a crappy type from a spray can. The only good paint I found for the cntest models was Testor's Model Master Metalizer series, Aluminum, in bottles, which required spraying from an airbrush. The Apollo LES tower was built-up like the 1/39.5 model had been. But for a jig, I used the Estes 1/100 tower to cast a female mold, then used the female mold as an assembly jig. The United States Lettering was too small for me to use the cut-letter trick and apply each letter one by one as with the 1/39.5 models. I had thought that I could get the lettering to work using clear decal film and lots of decal setting solution plus RTV copies of the Evergreen corrugations to press the decal strips into place. It mostly worked, but it was not as good as the hand-cut letters (other than the fact the letters were all perfectly aligned, which I may never have achieved with hand-cut 1/100 letters applied one by one). | Test Assembly Model, and Final model |
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As seen at right, staring at upper loft, clockwise: Raw Vac-form for 1/100 Peanut Cone, Raw Vac-form for 1/39.5 Cone, partly trimmed 1/39.5 Cone with cast Hard BPC, and a 1/39.5 Fin Root Fairing vac-formed from .04" Yellow plastic. Wayne Hendricks vac-formed all of the 1/39.5 cones, usually from .04" plastic. The cast "Hard BPC" was meant to glove-fit over a vac-formed cone. The casting included the fairings for the Tower legs and he beginnings of holes for the 3/32" legs. They needed a bit of drilling by hand afterwards. | |
In the photo at right, top row, the Tower Assembly Jig, Partially assembled Tower Side, Cast Hard BPC with one Tower side stuck into it, and partially built 4-sided tower. The tower was built up form 3/32" styrene tubing and 1/16" styrene rod. Glued by use of a jig and liquid cement. At lower left, two untrimmed "X" shape braces. At the lower right is a cast Tower Skirt. It was cast with four metal pins to help to anchor the tower skirt to the 3/32" LES tower legs. The LES legs were hollow, so the pins could be glued in (Plastic glues do not work with casting Resin). When the Skirt was cast, the metal pins had heads sticking into the resin area, so that the pins would be truly anchored. Simple straight pins would have easily slipped out. The pins also were scraped up a bit, and a slight hook bent into the end (not shown), otherwise smooth straight pins could have slipped out from inside a tower leg despite the glue. Unfortunately, I did not end up making any new models to make use of the cast parts like the Hard BPC and Tower Skirt. I had intended to do so for the 1992 WSMC, but was so burned out after doing the Pad for NARAM-34, I did not get actual construction of a new model started. | |
At right, a close-up of an X-brace. It was built up from four pieces of 1/16" rod. First step was to cut two pieces of 1/16" rod to the correct angle for a "V", then used a printed pattern as a guide for gluing them to the correct "V" angle, using liquid cement. I glued up many sets and let them dry. Then, I would take one V set, and trim the point off at about half-way along the V joint. And repeated with another V set. I them put both sets into a special jig I had made up to hold them at the correct inwards angle, and glued them. | |
At right, a drawing of the Tower Jig (at 1/19.75 scale, for printing at 50%). Below that is a photo of the real jig. To the left of the jig is a two-leg tower side assembly. To the right of the jig, a partially assembled four-sided Tower. As described earlier, the printed pattern was glued to a plastic sheet. Pieces of Plastruct "U" Channel (dark gray in the photo) were glued into place as jig guides. The tower legs, cut oversized, were taped in place. The horizontal struts were cut to length and glued in using Liquid Cement. A printed pattern helped in determining the length to cut the horizontal struts, an also for the 45 degree braces which were glued in later. The last step was cutting out and gluing in the diameter brace, not seen in the photo at right. Once one of the 2-leg assemblies was done, it was removed and a second two-leg assembly made in the same manner. When fully dry, then both sets of assemblies were placed into the jig, on their sides, set at 90 degrees, and taped in place so that the third of four sides could be built. I found it useful to use Tweezers to put the parts into place. Once that was dried enough o be structurally sound , the tape was removed and the tower rotated 80 degrees so that the 4th side could be built. Once the fourth side was done and dried, it was removed from the jig. Then I trimmed the "X" braces to the correct angles and lengths (using a printed pattern guide) and glued an X brace in, one at a time. After they were all done, I applied some extra coats of liquid cement to the joints, to help build them up. Care was needed since the liquid cement could also soften the joints and make them let go. To get a nice build-up of plastic at the joints, to help fill in any crevices, I used a near-empty bottle of liquid cement to put some scraps of plastic into, so the plastic would dissolve, so that could be brushed on as a sort of liquid filler. It was still more liquid cement than plastic. | |
At right is the NARAM model's BPC/LES, as seen at NARAM-34 (Tom Beach photo). The BPC Splice joints were simulated with a thick type of white decal material, cut into strips (Sig had some thick solid color decal sheet, I do not know the current status). The white decal strips simulating the BPC splices were applied before painting. The scimitar antennas were cut from styrene plastic. By the time this model had been built in 1990, there was still lot of data to compile, so there was some detailing that either I did not know of at the time, or I did not go quite into that detail on this model. The LES nozzles were vac-formed. The black roll pattern markings on the BPC and SM were not painted. They were cut out from solid black decal material. A rollout pattern was drawn up for the BPC, with the markings drawn into it. Then a printout of the pattern was glued to .04" plastic, and the .04" plastic cut out to act as cutting patterns. The plastic cutting patterns were placed onto the black decal film and cut out by hand. | |
The same method was done for the Service Module roll patterns, cutting guides made up and cut from black decal. The round dots on the SM were rub-on circles that Wayne Hendricks had found. Those worked out great. The silver area on the SM was cut from silver decal. The gold dots for the SM were punched from gold decal (brass tubing ground to a beveled edge all around). The Thruster Quads were cast resin, before I knew of Alumilite. The 16 thrusters were individually vac-formed. If I make another Little Joe A-004, those thrusters will be cast. | |